12 January 2009

Hum...must...eat...HUMMUS!

Hummus is the darling of vegetarians and vegans. A classic dip originating in the middle east, this simple chickpea and tahini spread has spawned countless variations -- some excellent, some hideous -- now available at your corner yuppie market. Supermarket hummus is usually whipped into the same textureless airy foam as double-whipped cream cheese and filled with all sorts of unnatural stabilizers and flavoring agents. And the real flavors - pungent garlic, nutty chickpeas, bittersweet sesame - are lost.

But fear not! Hummus is easy to make at home, and I love it. I started making it with canned chickpeas and then discovered the wonders of cooking your own. When I lived in Brazil, I bought fresh(ish) tahini from the lebanese markets and chickpeas in bulk from what we (or maybe our parents) would call greengrocers. The basic recipe goes as follows:

Soak about half a pound of chickpeas overnight in water to cover.
Drain and rinse.
Cover them in clean, cold water in a big stockpot, at least six cups. Chickpeas absorb quite a bit of water so make sure they are well submerged. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for about two hours, or until they are tender and almost falling apart. They should be chewable but not mushy.
Note: Observe the smooth texture of home-cooked chickpeas. They aren't as tough and grainy as canned.

Drain the chickpeas but reserve a bit of the liquid, about a cup or so. Using a food processor or a blender, chop a clove or two of garlic with a bit of salt. Add the chickpeas and pulse to blend until crumbled. Add 2-3 tablespoons of tahini, or more if you really like the sesame flavor. I've added up to 1/2 cup before - it makes it a lot creamier, but also adds fat and calories (albeit the "good" kind). Blend until creamy-ish, then with the motor running (if possible) add some of the cooking liquid. Blend until almost the desired consistency, then blend in a few tablespoons of olive oil. Taste for texture, balance and seasoning. Add more salt, tahini, oil or cooking water as desired.

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